@HopelessDemigod I see @vk6flab has already been helpful, but will add that the price has been made relatively expensive by the retailer’s brand premium, the product’s brand premium, the quality of the product, its weight, the cost of shipping that weight, and—I'll stop beating about the bush—its silver content.

@HopelessDemigod @vk6flab yeah, I know, but it's _luxury_ toxic waste. Sigh.

I wanted to go lead-free, but felt snookered: I’ve already used leaded solder, I need to fix those joints, and the board has an almost belligerent lack of thermal relief. If I mixed leaded and non-leaded solders in these holes, I fear I'd end up with some weird amalgam I'd never get out.

@vk2tty @HopelessDemigod @vk6flab I use classic 63% lead solder with the highest flux percentage I can find for everything. I ignore whatever might be there already. Never had a problem.

If I need to solder steel or stainless steel or nickel I use Ruby flux and my regular solder. No problem. People are stunned to see me solder copper wires to stainless steel dinner forks, nickel plated US quarters, US nickels. Easy peasy.

@shuttersparks @vk2tty @vk6flab

I’m more concerned your soldering copper wires to silverware. What king of Frankenstein inducing experiments are you up to?

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@HopelessDemigod @vk2tty @vk6flab I should add that soldering copper wire to REAL silverware would be extremely easy. ;-) Stainless steel, not so easy, but still very do-able if you know how.

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