'Japan now counts over a thousand varieties of miso, and each region is synonymous with a local recipe: Edo sweet red miso in Tokyo (the city being previously known as Edo) and sweet white miso in Kyoto. In the Chūkyō region it’s dark brown and bitter; in Kyushu it’s made with barley (mugi). As Kazutoshi Endo, chef-patron of the Michelin-starred London sushi restaurant Endo at the Rotunda, puts it, “miso equals culture”.'