From the article:
"The timing, too, seems right. When Gourmet first launched 75 years ago, in January of 1941, with a big strange illustration of a boar’s head on its cover, the Fascist pigs were on the march. Within a few years, the classical colonial empires would finish dying their prolonged and violent deaths, the world would be transformed under America’s hegemony, and the wheat and milk and Coca-Cola of the semi-automated food industry would flush into the diets of half the world. We still live in that system, but it’s difficult to shake the sense that a change is afoot. The espressos have been ordered, but the bill has not yet come."
So true.