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Every knot helps! It's so much easier for me since our little boat is on a trailer in the driveway.
But you're having more fun. 😀

I'm not sure what you are referring to by caps. Here's some pictures I have of the bow and stern at the rub rail area which I think show the covers you mean.
I believe mine are plastic.
(Ignore the sock over the forestay connector - not required equipment 😂 )

@SYPerelandra I meant to mention earlier: It looks like Goldbug has a rub rail around the edge of the deck just like Dandy Lion.

When I did some repairs I found that under the rub rail the deck had separated from the hull in spots. There were several rivets that had rusted away. So I cleaned that up, installed new rivets, filled the rub rail opening with silicone and stretched it back on (I had the bow and stern ends screwed fast.)

If you haven't already, I recommend pulling the rub rail and having a peek. :ablobrollingeyes:

PPP boosted

However, in 1999 the first planet was found via the Transit method and the world has never been the same (I am definitely not biased! 🤗 )

I’ll be back later with more on Transits and why they are THE BEST

#SpaceTalkTuesday (10/)

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@SYPerelandra OK; feeling better about the "eyeball" method.

I think I'll run a line of tape along the top of the original line, and once I get that "nice" I'll run a second line of tape along the top edge of the first. When I take the first line of tape off I should have an even gap (tape width) to the second line, the bottom of which will be my new waterline. (I don't have a boot stripe.)

Now I just have to get the hull clean enough for the tape to stick! 😜

It's so cool that Asking for Help gets things clear enough in one's mind that the answer often just appears.

@SYPerelandra Excellent; I'm sure I have waterlogged foam (the rain leaks in somehow) but it will stay for now.

I can see the original waterline OK. What I would like to determine is the best way to apply masking tape a fixed distance above it to create a higher waterline. Eyeballing, and repeatedly shifting the tape seems hit & miss.

I assume from your comments that the groove helped you lay out a new line.... somehow. 🤔

If you get a chance to make it to Lunenburg again let me know.

@SYPerelandra Yes; I used to lift the mast vertically from the side of the boat up to the tabernacle while balancing on the cabin roof on one leg and singing "Nearer my God to thee..."
Not any more.

Happily my prototype Gin pole works!
Got the mast up, fitted new turnbuckles on my shrouds, discovered two that need shortening (can't find turnbuckles short enough), and lowered it all again. Could even be done single handed on level ground & no wind.

@SYPerelandra Wow. The before and after transformation is amazing!

So you will be able to offer suggestions on adjusting my water line as originally "painted" (I'm assuming my fibre-glass has the colour pigments embedded).
Dandy Lion now sits about 3" lower in the water than the original black water line indicates. I don't mind that except Lunenburg harbour + mostly sitting at the mooring leaves a sludgy line on the yellow hull.
My amateur solution has been to elevate the black anti-fouling paint above the original line (usually only lasts a season or two).

The tricky bit is to arrange masking tape along the hull to provide a semblance of a straight and higher water line.

How did you determine the placement of a suitable water line when you changed colours? Thanks - appreciate your thoughts.

Hi there.
I’m Paul and as you can tell I’m currently a who plays the Piob Mor , and a who owns and flies an in .
I have a wonderful partner @vgrayauthor who is also a to my four adult children and 10 grandchildren.
As a life-long learner I have dabbled in, or immersed myself in, the following:
(new discipline in this emerging field in 1966; mainframes were the marvels - IBM 7040, PDP-10)
(22 yr. career in Canada; during this time developed what we now call the )
(another 22 yr. consulting in the human / business side of ; Including the ; and the development of teamwork for results through ; coaching other business people)
(starting as a teenager in a a long time ago)
(crew and owner of several small boats, and ; born on , so no surprise)
(, , , and now considering electric )
(over the years owned a Honda 350, Honda Shadow 750, and now a Honda CBF1000A)
(Electric Vehicles) (owner of a 2018 Tesla Model 3)
(have adopted 5 over the years)
(playing MacGyver for the above list; also since we live in a 170 yr. old house on a )

I like to ask questions. Don’t hesitate to stop me if I get annoying.
Will answer any questions with Don’t Know if I really don’t (i.e. not afraid to be clear about my ignorance)

Getting as much out of every minute as I can, so only opening my laptop when not otherwise busy.

@SYPerelandra Hey; that's phenomenal. That could be ours except yours is much cleaner and ours is called Dandy Lion.
That's a very nice cradle rig; ours lives outside on it's trailer.

Should I assume you step the mast with an A frame?

Or does the beautiful Perelandra keep you busy?

So glad we connected!

@stormtoast Aha! Crystal clear why that's aggravating. Shame that it falls back to you so that your thesis is solid.

In a perfect scenario how could this be remedied?
(No reply required. Just a lessons learned query. Voodoo dolls allowed. :) )

@SYPerelandra Thanks for the A frame idea. The Gin Pole solution seems to be simpler since it needs minimal construction, and uses lines and pulleys already available on the boat.

It is a Nordica 16 with a mast of about 10 m.

I've "MacGyver-ed" a prototype with bits I have available so when our weather clears I'll test it. In doing so, I've answered one of my own questions: From a strictly forces-at-play perspective the longer the Gin Pole the better since it is the lever for the system, so it's length amplifies the pulling force (I think).
(There's also something about the angles of the triangle & the re-direction of the pulling force that I'm still noodling.)

Really like your comment about the ancients. We have lost a lot over the centuries becoming "smarter" - what Quinn calls the Great Forgetting.
I imagine you are following the Viking boat building project - Skuldelev - using original methods (Viking Ship Museum).

@stormtoast Hmmm. That sucks. Stop me if I'm being too nosey, but it seems odd that you would have to do the redo instead of him. Is this an institutional rule, or etiquette, or your desire?

@stormtoast Seems very unproductive behaviour for him, but ... What's the downside for you? Seems like you get some unexpected free time - bonus; you don't have to deal with him as often - bonus. Sounds like you're ahead. 😎

Asking for help re the various forces at play in a triangle made up of a sailboat mast (lying horizontal, so the base of the triangle), a pole locked vertically at 90 degrees at one end of the mast (also the hinge point), and a line fastened to both making the hypotenuse. The goal is to raise the mast to vertical by pulling on the upper end of the pole (often called a Gin Pole) so that the triangle rotates around the hinge vertex and the Gin Pole becomes horizontal as the mast becomes vertical.

Intuitively (because I don't know how to calculate the forces, and really only need to grasp the basics) I think that the longer the Gin Pole the better (within bending limits).
Also, it feels right to have the hypotenuse line reach the top of the mast rather than shrink the triangle with the line attached to another point on the mast.

If anyone can point me to a source, or can share some thoughts on determining optimum pole length / forces involved based on the weight & length of the mast, etc. I will be very grateful.

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